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Yankees lived on one side of town, Portuguese on the other. When the railroad came, it put the Portuguese on the wrong side of the tracks. So did the steamer from Boston and later, Route 6. Portuguese families discovered they could make a little extra money by taking in boarders. While the Portuguese men were away fishing, their wives accommodated visitors, often nice single men. They returned year after year, and they grew friendly with their hostesses. From then and there, Provincetown was only a few steps away from becoming a gay mecca.
Provincetown roofs. Photo courtesy Library of Congress. Before they ever set foot on Plymouth Rock, the Pilgrims made landfall on the extreme northern tip of Cape Cod. They did a little exploring, stole a little Indian corn, signed the Mayflower Compact and then moved on to Plymouth.
But they realized the deep, sheltered harbor teemed with fish, and they took advantage of it. For the next decades, Plymouth Colony regulated and taxed the fishery, hoping to raise money for a school. The governor, Thomas Prence , got a deed for the land from local Indians in exchange for some blankets, kettles and tools. Well outside. The Massachusetts General Court made those lands part of Truro, and then in incorporated the Town of Provincetown. But again, Ptown retained its uniqueness.
They were allowed to squat in the built-up section, so long as they fished and farmed. But the colony owned the dunes and the scrub forest. Sal's Place I would eat here every night if I could. Set on the water in the west end, run by the amazing Siobhan Carew, with a brilliant staff, delicious Italian food, good lighting, and a great crowd.
Pepe's Wharf Center of town, decks on the beach, views of the water, faded nautical chic, oysters, and seafood. The Canteen Lobster rolls and so much more in a pretty outdoor garden setting.
No reservations taken, so walk in, order your food and find a bench under the trees overlooking the water. Relish Take-out sandwiches and salads on the west end of town. A perfect spot to pick up a picnic while riding towards the beaches. The Red Inn An old-fashioned inn built on the water with a pretty garden out front and a great deck. Usually it's the spot for a cocktail and a few oysters pre-dinner, but with the current climate, it's full lunch and dinner only.
Spindler's The good-looking coffee shop and restaurant on Commercial Street served me my daily dose. And was also great for cocktails and snacks in the garden.
John Derian Company I've visited his beautiful New York stores multiple times, but the Provincetown outpost feels special. A treasure trove located on John's residential property on Commercial Street a sea captains house from the 17th century , it is a welcome respite from the kitsch and mediocre art being sold in town.
Signature decoupage, Jenette Ferrier throws, Astier de Villatte ceramics and candles, and so much more. Open by appointment only for the moment. MAP Clothing and accessories — all chic and mainly for men, but just as appealing to the other half. Tim's Used Books For such a tiny town to be able to support four bookstores is impressive. One of my favorites is Tim's on Commercial street.
Mad As a Hatter Hats galore and a lifesaver if, like me, you forget to pack a hat for a summer break. Some galleries and museums are open, some are not. As is the case with many beach towns, most of the art you'll find is totally cheesy, but the spots that are always worth a visit are Bakker Project , Julie Heller Gallery , and Provincetown Art Association and Museum.
By the s, Provincetown was booming, and began to develop a resident population of writers and artists, as well as a summer tourist industry. After the Portland Gale severely damaged the town's fishing industry, members of the town's art community took over many of the abandoned buildings. By the early decades of the 20th century, the town had acquired an international reputation for its artistic and literary output.
The Provincetown Players was an important experimental theater company formed during this period.
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